Revised 6/13/19

 

Excessive moisture in a conventionally vented crawl space is the number one cause associated with a host of serious crawl space concerns. As levels of moisture rise in a structure, the structure becomes more conducive to wood destroying insects, more prone to microbial growth, more susceptible to rot, and suffers greatly diminished indoor air quality.

 

Crawl spaces that are infested with pests or mold allow toxic air to circulate through a structure. Mold growth and moisture damage can weaken the structure of the support beams and foundation walls. Poor insulation will allow drastic changes in temperature, allowing for moisture accumulation and causing heating and cooling systems to try to compensate for the influx of cold or warm air coming from beneath the floorboards.

 

Crawl space maintenance is an important part of good home care. By protecting the support structure from moisture, mold, rodents, and decay, it ensures that indoor air remains clean, energy bills remain low, and the structure will be architecturally sound for years to come.

 

 

6 STEPS OF SERVICE

 

Following the 6 Steps of Service:

• Meet the homeowner or tenant and listen to any concerns.

• Inform the customer of your general inspection plans.

• Let them know what you expect to be inspecting for and what the scope of services moving forward will include.

• Explain what they can expect from the inspection.

 

 

SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS

 

Inspection:

• Prior to conducting any inspection, ensure all equipment and materials are available for job completion.

  • Inspection Kit – contains small tools required to conduct inspections, such as flashlight, inspection mirrors, moisture meter, etc.

  • High-intensity spotlight (at least 500,000 candle-power) – standard flashlights are adequate when you are close to the target but are useless when inspecting a space from a distance. Use a high-intensity light to illuminate dark spots around eaves and gables. If a hole exists, it will remain dark when light shines on it. If the encapsulation surface is intact, light will reflect back to you.

  • Digital camera, smartphone or tablet – used to support renewal inspections through pictorial documentation. All photos will then be uploaded to PestPac as inspection support documentation.

  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) – this specialized equipment can include coveralls, bump hat and spotlight, gloves, goggles, knee-pads, and respirator (with hepa filter). All personal protective clothing may not be needed for each inspection, but a well-trained professional inspector will have all of them available.

• Gather preliminary structure background information to determine the initial condition of the structure (see Crawlspace Care Background & Inspection checklist located in the Appendices of this SOP).

• ​Conduct a full inspection of the structure to determine exactly what type of remediation will be required (see Crawlspace Care Background & Inspection checklist located in the Appendices of this SOP).​

 

Approved Product List:

• Treatment Materials

  • EZ Flow (French) drain (if required).

  • Sump pump (if required).

  • Bora Foam Board.

  • 12 mil reinforced poly sheeting (or 20 mil or 36 mil moisture wicking poly).

  • Santa Fe Advance2 Commercial grade Dehumidifier (if required).

  • Sentry Monitoring System (if required).

  • Drainage matting (if required).

 

Installation: Preparing the Crawl Space

• Remove Debris

  • All debris should be removed in order to protect the floor liner and limit the potential for pests.

  • Pay particular attention to anything that could puncture the floor liner.

    • Wood scraps

    • Metal scraps

    • Rocks

    • Old insulation

    • Other trash

• Scrub Masonry

  • Walls should be dry scrubbed using a strong bristled brush where the liner will be sealed to the masonry (up to 3” below mudsill).

  • This helps to create a permanent seal when installing the wall liner.

• Grade to Low Point

  • Floor should be graded to a low point where the drain to daylight or the sump pump will be located.

  • This grade may require cutting high spots and filling low spots (bringing in extra fill or removing fill).

  • If a single low point cannot be graded, then multiple drains and/or sump pumps may be required.

 

Installation: Floor Insulation

• Install or rework insulation to completely fill floor and/or cantilever framing or to maintain permanent contact with the subfloor.

• Add insulation or rework to fill the cavity between conditioned and unconditioned space without gaps, voids, misalignments or compression.

 

Installation: Wall Insulation

• Wall insulation should be installed so that it is free of gaps, voids, compression and aligned with the masonry way.

• A 3” strip of exposed masonry should be left just under the mud sill for termite inspections.

• If walls are insulated, then the band needs to be insulated and the door needs to be insulated and should have weather-stripping.

• Wall insulation should be mechanically fastened to and aligned with the foundation wall.

 

Installation: Air and Pest Sealing

• Air movement must be restricted between the crawl space and the house and between the crawl space and the outside.

• This isolates the crawl space so moisture levels can be controlled.

• It also helps seal pest out of the crawl space and the house.

 

Installation: Sump Pump or Drain to Daylight

• Dig a hole 3-4 inches wider and deeper than the sump pump basin (keep the bottom as level as possible).

• Place the basin in the hole and check that it is level (adjust basin as necessary).

• Fill space round basin completely with pea gravel.

• Install the floor liner over the basin.

• Cut a circle in the liner that is 3 inches in from the lip of the basin.

• Place the sump with a vertical pipe section attached into the basin.

• Install weather-stripping to the basin lid.

  • Sandwich the floor liner between the lid and the basin.

  • Using coarse thread lid bolts, attached the lid to the basin.

  • Fit rubber grommets around the pipe and the power cord.

• Install a drain into the extra hole in the sump pump lid.

  • A back-flow preventer must be installed on the drain to maintain the seal of the pump.

• Plumb the sump pump to the outside.

• Plug the sump pump into a GFCI protected outlet.

 

Installation: Measuring and Cutting Liner

• Measure the length and width of the floor.

• Measure the length of each wall segment.

• Determine the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM height of each wall.

• Measure the pier dimensions.

• *NOTE: include 12 inches of overlap for each seam.

• The wall liner should hang on the ground at least 12 inches.

• It is best to draw a diagram of the crawl space and draw all material “CUTS”.

• When cutting liner, it is important to remember that all seams need to be overlapped by 12 inches.

• The fewer seams the better in an encapsulation.

 

Installation: Wall Liner

• Apply tape to the back of the wall liner 1 inch down from the top.

  • Ensure the liner is dry and free of debris.

  • It is best to this outside because of it being an easier environment to work in.

• Measure and mark 3 inches down from the mudsill.

  • Termite inspection gaps are required above the wall liner.

  • This is typically a 3 inch strip of exposed masonry below the bottom of the mudsill.

• Unpack the correct section of liner and situate it along the wall.

• Remove the tape protective backing 3 feet at a time and adhere the liner to the wall.

• Pull the liner over all vents and doors (these will be cut out later).

  • Make sure the liner is level and free of folds.

• Drill holes every 2 to 3 feet with a 1/4 inch drill bit through the tape.

• Insert foundation pins into the pre-drilled holes.

  • It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet to tap in the foundation pins.

• *NOTE: include 12 inches of overlap for each seam.

• ALTERNATE METHOD: Install Bora Foam Board on foundation walls – see “Installation: Vent Covers” below before installing Bora Foam Board.

 

Installation: Cover Piers and Exterior Corners

• Apply tape 1 inch down from the top of the liner.

• Measure and mark 3 inches down from the top of the masonry.

• Remove the tape protective backing while wrapping the liner around the pier.

  • As the pier is wrapped, it will be necessary to cut the liner at the corners to form “tails”.

• Drill 1/4 inch holes at the exposed top corner of the liner.

• Insert foundation pins into the pre-drilled holes.

• Tape the seam.

• Exterior corners should be treated just as exterior corners of piers.

  • It will be necessary to cut the liner at the corner to form “tails”.

 

Installation: Wall Liner at Interior Corners

• Install the liner using the double-sided foundation tape.

  • Ensure the 3 inch inspection gap is maintained.

• Install foundation pins on each side of the interior corner at the top of the wall liner.

• Press the liner into location where the ground and both walls intersect.

  • Fold liner over onto itself to form a bisecting seam with the angle of the corner.

  • Adjust liner as necessary to create a smooth surface on the floor and both walls.

• Tape the bisecting seam with seam tape.

• *NOTE: include 12 inches of overlap for each seam.

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Installation: Vent Covers

• Cut the liner at all foundation vent openings.

• Seal the liner to the wall.

• Drill 1/4 inch holes through the tape to the left and right of vent opening and at the lower corners.

• Insert foundation pins into the pre-drilled holes.

• Install a piece of Bora Foam Board that is cut to size for each foundation opening.

• Air seal cracks with foam sealant.

 

Installation: Floor Liner

• Install felt underlay material to protect floor liner from sharp objects.

• Unpackage liner into the correct location.

• Position liner into the correct location as necessary.

  • Make liner as smooth as possible to prevent puddling should there be a leak.

  • *NOTE: include 12 inches of overlap for each seam.

• Floor liner should be installed over the “tails” of the wall liner.

• Tape the seams where the floor liner and wall liner meet.

• Once all floor liners are installed, tape floor liner to overlapping floor liner.

• Tape floor liner to pier liner “tails”.

 

Installation: Access Door

• Cut out liner approximately 3 inches away from the inside door frame opening.

• Apply double-sided tape to masonry directly next to the doorframe.

• Adhere liner to the tape.

• Drill 1/4 inch holes through the tape every 2 to 3 feet on center around the door frame.

• Drill holes at each of the lower corners of the frame.

• Insert foundation pins into the pre-drilled holes.

• Trim liner and caulk to the door frame.

• Install weather-stripping to seal the door opening.

 

Installation: Dehumidifier Install

• Place the dehumidifier centrally in the crawl space and level as necessary.

• Install a drain fitting into the condensate drain hole.

• Attach condensate piping with a hose clamp.

  • Additional elevation may be required if using a gravity drain.

• Create or install an approved trap and connect the supply line to the drain.

  • A drain trap allows a small amount of condensate (water) to build up in the trap area of the hose.

  • This prevents air from back flowing through the hose and back into the unit.

• Plug the dehumidifier into a GFCI outlet and set the unit to the correct drying level.

 

Installation: Cleanup

• Clean floor liner, wiping up any dirt or debris.

• This is the last step in the encapsulation process before leaving the crawl space.

 

Miscellaneous Installation Information:

• Disassemble and remove old HVAC duct lines (if required).

• Air seal all cracks and penetrations with foam sealant.

• Install EZ Flow (French) drain along interior foundation walls (if required).

• Install sump pump kit, basin and drain (if required).

• Seal all vents and penetrations from inside crawlspace.

• Install Bora Foam Board on foundation walls (leave 1-3 inches inspection gap for future termite inspections).

• Install Bora Foam Board to interior of crawlspace entry door so it’s air tight when closed.

• Wrap all piers with 12 mil reinforced poly sheeting.

• Install drainage matting on crawlspace floor (if required).

• Install 20 mil reinforced poly sheeting on top of drainage matting (if required).

• Install Santa Fe Advantage2 Commercial grade Dehumidifier (if required).

• Install Sentry Monitoring System (if required).

 

Other Notes:

• Prior to conducting any inspection or treatment, ensure all equipment and materials are available for job completion.

• While providing the crawlspace care treatment, examine for other pests living outside to recommend other A-1 services.

 

 

6 STEPS OF SERVICE (continued)

 

Continuing to follow the 6 Steps of Service:

• Let the customer know what was found and what was done. If the customer is not available, leave a “Door Hanger” with written notes specifying what was found, what was done, and any recommendations deemed necessary.

• Inform the customer what to expect over the next few days, weeks, months, etc. Set clear expectations for upcoming visits.

• Ask the customer: “Do you have any other Pest Control needs I can take care of today?”

• If the customer does NOT already have a Home Shield service, ask them, “May I tell you about our routine service for continuous pest protection for your family?”

• Ask the customer, “If you feel that I provided you with good service today, I’d like to invite you to give us a positive online review – we’ll make it very easy for you.”

 

 

WARRANTY – 25-year Liner warranty; 6-year Dehumidifier warranty

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