Revised 6/26/19

 

Termites are typically a serious threat to homes, especially in North Carolina and surrounding areas. Queens can produce thousands of termite eggs per day, and termites have a relentless appetite for the structural wood in buildings. Unfortunately, termite damage is typically not covered by homeowners insurance – so owners need to stay two steps ahead of termite invasions. To stay ahead of termites is paramount, because as soon as minor damage is starting to be noticed, considerable damage has most likely already occurred.

 

When selling a home, it is essential that a number of inspections are carried out. These include structural, electrical, plumbing and others. With termites found in almost all US states, checking for these insects is also highly recommended, especially since most lending institutions require this before giving a mortgage to a potential buyer. But always remember that you represent the buyer (or whoever is paying for the inspection report), and he/she deserves to know the condition of the home in order to make an informed decision as to their moving forward with the purchase of the home.

 

Buying or selling a home can be a complicated process, involving numerous contracts and financial agreements between buyers and sellers, and their respective real estate agents. As discussed above, most home sale transactions require a certified termite inspection (WDIR) before closing. Where termite reports are required by the state or by a lender, the report typically must be dated within 30 days of closing.

 

For the sake of definition, the following are considered to be wood destroying insects for the purpose of inspection – subterranean termites, old house borers, powder post beetles, and a variety of other wood boring beetles, etc. Also covered in this grouping is inspecting for and reporting of Carpenter Bees and Carpenter Ants.

 

Of these, subterranean termites are the most destructive wood-destroying insects found in structures throughout North Carolina. It is estimated that the national annual cost to prevent, control and repair damage caused by subterranean termites alone exceeds $2 billion. Because of this significant economic damage, home buyers depend on the pest control industry for professional WDI inspections.

 

In conclusion, a WDIR is a thorough visual inspection for visible evidence of wood-destroying insects, reporting the presence or absence of wood-destroying insects and their evidence in a structure, and this inspection must be performed both inside and outside of that structure(s). If access to parts of the property is not possible or is denied, then the report should state that with a valid and clear explanation. The inspection covers all accessible areas of the structure(s) inspected on the day of the inspection. The inspector must accurately document findings and existing conditions found at the property and answer all appropriate questions on the WDIR.

 

 

Elements of Construction

 

Obviously, not all homes are constructed alike. A variety of roofing materials, siding systems and foundations are in use throughout North Carolina. For this reason, it is essential that termite inspectors be thoroughly familiar with local building practices and construction terminology. And since most termite infestations begin at ground level from subterranean termites, it is essential that inspectors recognize and understand the different types of foundations they may encounter.

 

Crawl space foundations utilize a series of vertical piers or pillars to support the structure. This type of foundation creates a space between the floor joists and the earth. In a crawl space foundation, the piers or pillars will sometimes rest on a poured concrete footing, but usually the entire foundation is comprised only of these vertical piers and their individual footings.

 

There are three basic types of slab-on-grade foundations – floating, supported and monolithic. In floating and supported slabs, a concrete foundation or stem wall is constructed first. The slab, which is poured later, will either float on the fill material or it will be supported around the perimeter by the stem wall. In either case, a joint is formed between the slab and stem wall – here termites can enter the structure unseen.

 

Monolithic foundation slabs have a perimeter-foundation beam and sometimes, interior-grade beams as well. Once the site is excavated and prepared, the foundation beams and slab are formed in a single pour. When finished, the foundation beams and slab form a single or monolithic unit.

 

Monolithic slabs typically have several vertical penetrations where termites may enter the structure unseen. The largest of these are called bath traps or tub drain cutouts. Other penetrations can occur where drain pipes, stack pipes or utilities enter or exit the slab. Under some circumstances, such as multi-level slabs, wooden grade stakes may be left under the concrete, providing a further attractant to termites. Termites can also enter through cracks in slabs and/or foundations. Some hairline cracking is usually expected in most slabs due to uneven settling of the structure over time. However, significant cracks – 1/32 inch or wider – will allow entry of termites from the soil or fill material under the slab.

 

 

Conducive Conditions

 

Even with technology improvements in subterranean termite control in baits, nonrepellent termiticides and contact kill termiticides, we still have to be concerned about conducive conditions that exist in and around structures. Modern solutions can be effective, but they can also be compromised by these conditions. Following is a listing of conducive conditions that can affect the outcome of subterranean termite activity, regardless of the type of treatment performed.

 

Inspect structures and adjacent areas for conditions conducive to subterranean termite activity. Identify and inspect the locations of critical areas known to be favored by termites including, but not limited to:

• INDOOR

  • Foundation penetrated by utility service (gas, electric, water, drains, etc.)

  • Settlement (shrinkage) cracks

  • Expansion joints

  • Interior raised slab expansion joints

  • Adjoining slabs

  • Interior dropped slab expansion joints

  • Additions to main structure foundation walls and expansion joints

  • Sunken bathtubs, saunas and hot tubs

  • Areas with moisture problems (record moisture meter readings in wood and on surfaces)

  • Chimney hearth on slab construction (usually there is an expansion joint under and behind the chimney)

  • Interior planter boxes

  • Wood support timbers in crawlspaces, in or near ground contact

  • Wood-to-ground contact in crawlspaces

  • Form boards and other cellulose debris in crawlspaces

  • Lack of adequate crawlspace ventilation

• OUTDOOR

  • Downspouts and drain lines

  • Clogged gutters

  • Leaking water faucets

  • Poorly drained or constantly moist areas in landscape around structure

  • Fence posts attached to the structure

  • Tree stumps

  • Mulched areas (bark chips, pine straw, leaves, wood chips, etc.)

  • Air conditioner evaporation drain lines next to foundation

  • Exterior planter boxes connected to the structure

  • Firewood stacked next to the structure and on the ground

  • Landscape timbers in contact with the structure

  • Latticework touching the ground around porches and decks

  • Sauna wet area and other leak sources

  • Hot tubs

  • Laundry room water source and pipe entries

  • Chimney foundations and hearths

  • Deck posts with ground contact

  • Deck timbers with ground contact or no access for inspections

  • Wood steps with ground contact

  • Support timbers with ground contact

  • Concrete expansion joint materials left in place

  • Cracks in the slab or obstructed slab

  • Sprinkler heads leaking close to structure foundation

  • Sprinkler heads spraying toward structure

  • Sprinkler heads located close to structure (backspray on structure)

  • Crawlspace access with wooden framework and/or door with ground contact

  • Wooden fences with ground contact attached to structure

  • Dead tree roots located next to structure foundation

  • Dead plants located next to structure foundation

  • Shrubbery close to structure foundation (minimum 12 inch clearance)

  • Climbing plants growing on structure

  • Ornamental plants touching structure foundation, wall or roof

 

 

Moisture Sources

 

Moisture is a critical element for the survival of most plants and animals. Subterranean termites are no exception. Because of their relatively soft exoskeleton, the ambient humidity must remain very high for survival – usually 22-25% moisture content. Current subsoil termiticide labels warn of this condition in that if persistent moisture conditions above ground are not corrected, the subsoil treatment alone may not resolve the problem.

 

When inspecting a structure for possible moisture sources, here are some places to consider:

 

• Air conditioners

  • Are the drip pipes in central units directed into a proper point where the water is taken away from the building?

  • Is the moisture controlled properly in window units?

• Landscaping

  • Is the terrain properly sloped away from the building?

  • Is sufficient space observed between ground level and the first row of shingles or siding?

  • Is the stucco, brick or other veneer, etc. below grade?

  • Is new mulch piled on top of old mulch?

  • Is mulch covering the treated soil barrier?

  • Is vegetation too close to the house?

  • Is the vegetation too dense to allow proper air movement?

• Roofs

  • Does the roof line sag?

  • In what condition are the shingles?

  • Wherever pipes and vents protrude, are they sealed properly?

• Rain gutters and downspouts

  • Are rain gutters and downspouts present?  If not, the water will run against the structure.

  • Are stains located behind the downspouts?  If present, rainwater, irrigation or other water sources is leaking against the structure.

  • Is the pitch of the gutters proper?  If not, water will back up and spill over the gutter.

  • Are the gutters wide enough?

  • Is a sufficient number of downspouts available to catch the rain?

  • Are gutters free of debris, leaf litter and growing vegetation?  This is particularly important with tall trees hanging over the structure.

  • Are the downspouts directed away from the structure sufficiently enough to direct the water away and not pool or return to the structure’s foundation?

• Green algae growing on exteriors

  • Are sprinklers directed the wrong way?

  • Is shrubbery too close to the structure, preventing sufficient air movement to dry the area?

  • Is shrubbery or flowers being watered by hand with a hose, with the structure constantly being hit by water?

• Other potential areas

  • Brick veneer mortar – over time, it can deteriorate and allow water penetration.

  • Inadequate or no ventilation in the crawl space – recommendation of vent installation may be in order.

  • Showerheads – some showerheads can be set to vibrate.  Such pounding can loosen shower tiles and force water to seep behind the tiles.

  • Skylights – check for water stains indoors around the windows.

  • Wood-to-ground contact – moisture from the soil continually wicks upward.

 

If performing a WDIR inspection at the request of a homeowner, or if the seller is present at the time of the inspection, begin by giving a brief explanation of the inspection routine, followed by interviewing the client. Ask about previous infestations, inspections or treatments. Ask the homeowner to show you suspicious signs or areas where he/she thinks termites have been active. Also ask the resident whether he/she knows of any current moisture problems, or any that may have occurred within the past year. If you suspect such a problem, or have an indication of a recurrent termite problem, use a moisture meter to help pinpoint excess moisture.

 

*NOTE:

Ensure that high moisture readings (20% or higher) are recorded on the WDI inspection report, along with specific locations noted. In addition, take photos of any high moisture reading and insert into the account.

 

 

Signs of Infestation

 

Subterranean termites require moisture to survive. If exposed to dry air, they will lose internal moisture very quickly. To prevent moisture loss and attack by predators, termites build mud “shelter tubes” about pencil-sized, or larger, in diameter when crossing open or exposed areas.

 

Six to eight inches of mud tubing can be built by a termite colony in a single day!

 

Mud tubes are among the most common signs of subterranean termite infestations. They can be found on exterior and interior foundation walls, under exterior siding, on piers or pillars, in cracks or joints between structural elements, and just about anywhere termites decide to tube over something instead of eating through it.

 

Another sign of termite activity is damaged wood. Typically, wood damaged by subterranean termites has a characteristic look. Termites attack softer springwood, feeding with the grain, not across it. Galleries are usually covered with a mud-like substance, resembling dried oatmeal. In homes with plaster or drywall interior walls, small “pinholes” or “exit holes” on the wall surface, surrounded by a slightly darker stain, are another sign of termite activity. These “exit holes” are associated with subterranean termite swarming only. But wood damaged by wood-destroying beetles is different. The galleries are very clean – they appear to have been sanded smooth and have no “frass” in them. In addition, thin, “bubbled” or distorted areas of paint or other wood finish may be observed, which will be cool to the touch.

 

If you find activity – it’s “new damage”; if there’s no activity – it’s “old damage!”

 

And lastly, in the Spring or early Summer, live and/or dead “swarmer” bodies can be observed in or around the structure, and thin, small papery wings, all the same size and shape, 3/8 – 1/2 inch long, lying about on window sills, counter tops, floors or other horizontal surfaces around the home which are light in color, such as bathtubs, etc. “Swarmers”, like other flying insects, are attracted to light, and also light colored items and/or areas.

 

Regardless of the type of wood-destroying insect infestation encountered, damaged wood can be nearly destroyed on the inside while still appearing to be solid on the outside. Tapping on or “sounding” wood with a “tapping stick” or the handle of a screwdriver or other blunt instrument will produce a dull or hollow sound if termites or other wood-destroying insects have damaged the wood. Careful probing of suspected areas with a sharp instrument, such as an ice pick, knife blade or screwdriver, can further detect damaged wood beneath the surface. The presence of bubbled paint may also indicate termite-damaged wood and should be further investigated.

 

 

6 STEPS OF SERVICE

 

Following the 6 Steps of Service:

• Meet the homeowner or tenant and listen to any concerns.

• Inform the customer of your general inspection plans.

• Let them know what you expect to see while inspecting and ask if they are currently experiencing any other pest issues.

 

 

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

 

Conducting the Inspection:

 

Various tools are required for conducting inspections. Most of the tools required for these inspections are generic in nature and quite commonplace. Ensure all equipment & materials are available for inspection completion.

 

• Ladder – used for checking high areas on both the inside and outside of all structures.  The step ladder is also used to gain access to attic areas if no built-in attic ladder is available.

• Inspection Kit – contains small tools required to conduct inspections, such as probing and sounding tools, flashlight, inspection mirrors, hand lens or portable microscope, tapping stick, specimen containers, etc.

• Moisture Meter – used to formally support and document potential problems which may produce “conducive conditions” caused by high moisture content in specific areas of the structure, thereby promoting activity and damage by wood-destroying insects. Areas of high moisture (20% and higher) will be recorded on the WDIR, along with specific locations noted.

• Digital camera, smartphone or tablet – used to support written inspections and help support potentially litigious situations encountered through pictorial documentation. For initial WDI inspections, a photo of the front of the structure should be taken, along with photos of conducive conditions, and WDI related activity and damage. All photos will then be uploaded to PestPac as inspection support documentation.

• Measuring Wheel – used to quickly and efficiently determine distances in order to develop an accurate graph and to determine the linear footage of a structure for pricing purposes, etc.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) – this specialized equipment can include coveralls, bump hat and spotlight, gloves, goggles, knee-pads, and respirator (with hepa filter). All personal protective clothing may not be needed for each inspection, but a well-trained professional inspector will have all of them available.

 

Upon arrival at the inspection site, be observant of the exterior of the structure. The first item to be established is the type of construction. The possible choices are concrete block, wood frame, a combination of block and frame, wood frame encased by brick, or a metal exterior (found in commercial applications and/or out-buildings). Keep in mind that all of these structures will have some amount of wood in them and interior walls are almost always wood frame. Exterior walls to be especially concerned with are wood frame covered with stucco, as these appear to be concrete block unless you ‘thump’ the wall and listen to the sound (concrete block walls will make a solid sound and wood frame walls will make a more hollow sound). These walls should be checked with more diligence as they tend to have stucco or other siding below grade – a prime area of entrance for subterranean termites.

 

Stand back from the structure, look it over carefully and ask yourself the following questions:

• Will rain flow properly off the roof?

• Are gutters adequate and clean?

• Are downspouts present in sufficient number and directed away from the structure?

• Is the grade sloped properly to insure water flows away?

• Are shingles or siding in good shape?  Is paint peeling?

• Is the bottom row of shingles or siding in contact with, or embedded in, the soil?

• Is brick veneer present and does it go below grade?

• Is adequate space available between the landscaping and the structure?

• Is there wood debris around the structure?

• Are vines crawling up the walls?

• Are weeping willow trees (or other plant species) nearby, indicating a high water table?

• What type of soil is available (clay soils will not distribute liquid termiticides well)?

• Does the structure have variations in add-ons, like stoops, patios, porches, etc.?

 

While inspecting a structure for wood-destroying insects, the inspector should also be on the look-out for other conditions conducive to subterranean termite infestation, including but not limited to those shown above, and especially those areas where wood comes in contact with the soil. Another common conducive condition to termite activity is moisture accumulation. This can result from plumbing leaks, faulty or missing flashing, constant wetting from irrigation, roof leaks, etc.

 

Utility sheds, gazebos, docks, etc. are considered structures and may be inspected if directed and must also be noted in the upper section of the WDIR under “Structures Inspected”. An exception to this is wooden fences – if attached to the structure, only the portion at the point of attachment is required to be inspected. Any termite activity, past activity and/or damage should be noted on the WDIR – section 3A, “Inspection revealed visible evidence of:”. However, landscaping timbers, decks and other wood items physically attached to the structure are considered to be “part of the structure” and will be treated as such for reporting purposes.

 

A closer examination will also reveal further potential problems:

• Is standing water located anywhere adjacent to the structure?

• Are there visible cracks in the foundation wall?

• Is wood intact at the base of pillars, posts and lower windows?

• Are sprinklers installed so water does not hit the structure?

• Do any water spigots leak?  Are hoses attached tightly so water doesn’t drip or splash back on the structure?

• Are water stain marks observed around fixtures, windows, ceilings, or walls?

• Is the base of the garage doorframe the original wood, and is it still intact?

• Have sections of sill plates been replaced?

• Are water leaks noted beneath cabinets in bathrooms, utility rooms or the kitchen?

• Where does the condensation tube from the air conditioning system drain?

• In crawl spaces, is there adequate ventilation and are vents operating properly?  Is the space cluttered with debris – cardboard or old wood?  Is there any standing water?

 

Interior Inspection Points:

 

One of the major factors dictating the scope of inspection is whether or not the structure is occupied or vacant. Occupied structures pose challenges to full access of the interior of a structure. Be very careful in inspecting around furnishings and personal belongings as we can be held liable for damage to these personal effects. Also included are closets with attic access, which are filled with clothing. We don’t want to get a dry cleaning bill for every article of clothing in a closet because we opened the access hole and dirt and insulation fell from the attic. If packed boxes are blocking our access to a baseboard, wall, etc. or a full closet prevents us from gaining access to the attic, this should be noted on the WDIR – section 2, “Areas of the property which are deemed to be obstructed or inaccessible:”.

 

The first step in inspecting the interior of a structure is called “sounding”. The purpose of “sounding” is to ascertain if there are indications or activity of wood destroying insects, including damage and/or live insects. “Sounding” is a method used to detect “hollow” areas that could be suspect for infestations. Not all areas that sound “hollow” will be suspect and not all infestation evidence may sound “hollow”. For example, “sounding” wood damaged by wood-destroying beetles may not indicate a “hollow” sound. But this process will dislodge frass in the wood and enable the inspector to confirm the identity of the wood destroying insect that caused the damage.

 

When conducting the interior portion of the inspection, begin at the front door, regardless of the original point of entry. Work in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, depending on preference – but be consistent. Using a tapping stick (4 ft. dowel rod, 5/8” diameter), or the handle of a screwdriver, tap on all baseboards in approximately 3-4” increments and pay close attention to the sound of the stick against the baseboard. Areas of termite infestation will have the sound of a dull ‘thud’, and depending upon the severity of the damage, the tapping instrument may go clear through the baseboard. Proceed through the entire structure, keeping in mind that ‘islands’ may exist in the center of the structure. DON’T OVERLOOK THESE!  In the case of multiple levels, do each level separately.  Also tap along tile in showers to detect loose tiles – this serves as a source of moisture behind a wall, and provides the proper environment for subterranean termites to thrive. Note areas with wood floors and tap extensively, looking for soft spots.

 

Next, “probing” is the process that uses the “head” (blade end) of a screwdriver or some other pointed “probing” device to pry into areas where “sounding” has indicated probable sites of infestation or other visible signs of wood destroying insect or fungus activity.  “Probing” is performed to determine if there are live insects or possibly the extent of insect or fungus activity.  If “sounding” and “probing” are conducted in areas where cosmetic damage may result, all appropriate steps should be taken to not unduly deface the area.

 

*NOTE:

Permission from the homeowner or their agent may be required before probing finished surfaces such as windowsills and baseboards.

 

You should now be back at the front door. After performing the “sounding” and “probing” functions, begin inspecting the walls for signs of “exit holes”. These are small holes that have the appearance of thumb tack or nail holes in drywall. Only closer inspection will allow differentiation. Any hole that upon scraping the surface has a dark ring around it is an exit hole for subterranean termites. Inspect walls around showers closely, including walls opposite of showers in other rooms. All areas around windows should be closely examined, especially along the top. Move blinds or curtains as necessary to allow for visual inspection. On windowsills, look for wings of “swarmers”.

 

Other areas to concentrate on include behind toilets and around sinks or any openings where plumbing penetrates the wall. Since most plumbing is below the slab or under the floor, this provides an easy entrance for subterranean termites. Open all cabinet doors and look for signs of infestation. Also note any water stains, regardless of location. Water stains on ceilings may point to a roof leak, and therefore wood rot in attic areas. When this occurs, make a mental note to pay particular attention to leakage and/or damage in the general area when inspecting the attic.

 

A thorough interior inspection check-list includes:

• Window and door sills, including sliding glass door sills.

• Door jambs, baseboards and base shoes.

• Patrician walls.

• Floor coverings, including wood floors, linoleum and vinyl tile, parquet floors, etc.

• Fireplaces, hearths and built-in wood boxes.

• Bathroom inspection plates (in slab construction).

• Wall furnaces.

• Water heater enclosures, tanks and pipes.

• ALL plumbing, including pipes, toilets and showers.

• Sink installations (pull out the drawers and drain boards).

• Around all appliances.

• Exposed ceiling beams.

• Wood paneling and other wall coverings.

• Celotex and other acoustic ceiling tiles.

 

Attic Inspection Points:

 

There are several items that need to be addressed in regard to attics. First and foremost, if a pull-down staircase is in place, inspect it closely. If there are screws missing, or if it in any way appears unstable – DON’T USE IT!!!  Ensure that this is noted on the WDIR – section 2, “Areas of the property which are deemed to be obstructed or inaccessible:” and specifically list “pull-down attic stairs unsafe” on that line.

 

A second point of concern is bare wires. Rodents, if present in attics, can chew through the insulation on ‘romex’ cable and leave the copper conductors exposed. An improper electrical repair or addition to a circuit by using wire nuts, instead of making all splices in a covered junction box as per building code, can result in the wire nuts coming off and exposing bare wire. In either case, a severe shock hazard can exist if contact with the wires is made. In addition, if bare wires in another area of the attic from where you are come into contact with metal ductwork, the current can travel through that ductwork and can STILL give you a jolt.

 

In the event of a shock, the first instinct is to pull away. If standing on a ladder, additional injury resulting from a fall is extremely likely, and if standing on beams in an attic, the odds are good that you will lose your footing and step through a ceiling. The moral here is if you see bare wires – STOP AND CAREFULLY GET OUT OF THE ATTIC!!!  Ensure that this is noted on the WDIR – section 2, “Areas of the property which are deemed to be obstructed or inaccessible:” and specifically list “bare wires in attic” on that line.

 

Concern number three is nails protruding downward through the roof decking. Be extremely careful if the area above the access hole has protruding nails because it is all too easy to pull yourself into an attic and inadvertently push directly into the nails.

 

As you can see from the preceding examples, the ability to inspect an attic in its entirety is almost impossible. The WDIR should be noted with the total percentage of the attic that is inaccessible. This is perfectly acceptable, given the hazards and inaccessibility that attics possess.

 

Now that all the hazards have been addressed, you may proceed into the attic. If water stains had been noted on ceilings, look in the area above those stains for further evidence of water stains on roof decking or truss components. Look at all accessible areas for signs of wood-destroying insects, including subterranean termite activity and galleries, wood-destroying beetle frass and other damage, and note accordingly.

 

A thorough attic and roof inspection check-list includes:

• Attic accessibility.

• Subterranean mud shelter tubes.

• Inaccessible spaces within the attic.

• Insulated attics.

• Attic plumbing leaks.

• Subterranean termites in attic through hollow walls.

• Broken heating vents and subsequent condensation.

• Diagonal and horizontal sheeting.

• Brick veneer and other types of siding.

• Inaccessible areas, including enclosed stucco stairs, wooden floors, bay windows, and additions or sunken rooms.

• Live subterranean termites.

• Foundation cracks.

• Structural damage, including studding, cripples, mudsills, and subflooring.

 

Exterior Inspection Points:

 

After completing the interior and attic inspection, proceed to the outside of the structure. Around the exterior perimeter, closely look for signs of termites where the grade meets the foundation wall or exterior siding. Look at all exterior walls for mud tunnels or evidence of “scarring.” Also be aware of “stucco or siding below grade” and “wood to ground contact” as these conditions provide an easy meal for subterranean termites. “Wood to ground contact” and “siding below grade” should both be noted on the WDIR. As mentioned earlier, fences must be inspected for evidence of infestation at the point of attachment. Walk around the structure with the tapping stick and check for wood destroying insects overhead in exposed wood. All doorframes and window frames are to be inspected for wood destroying fungi or termites and don’t forget to inspect the corners of the door. Any other structure, such as sheds, gazebos, docks, detached garages, etc. should also be inspected at this time (if covered by the WDIR).

 

For homes with crawl spaces, the primary means of entry for subterranean termites is to tube over or up through the piers or pillars supporting the structure. A close and careful examination of ALL sides of each pier is essential. Always check the top of every pier for voids that termites may use to gain hidden access to sills, beams or joists. Also inspect any plumbing lines that go from the soil to the structure and the interior of joints and cracks in foundation elements for signs of termite tubes, etc. When there is less than enough space to allow for access into a crawl space safely (at least fifteen inches from the ground to the bottom of the floor joists), this should also be noted on the WDIR.

 

*NOTE:

Infested wood debris in a crawlspace, basement, or in any part of the structure, should be reported on the WDIR section 3A “Inspection revealed visible evidence of:”

 

While some slab-on-grade foundations can appear easy to inspect, they can also have numerous hidden termite entryways. Ease of exterior perimeter inspections on a slab home is directly related to the height of the grade around the house and whether the exterior siding or cladding extends below grade. Typically, there should be four to six inches between the bottom of the siding and the grade. Be suspicious of areas where brick veneer or other siding extends below grade.

 

Builders often use a thin coat of mortar or stucco waterproof or cover rough concrete or masonry foundation walls. Like siding, if stucco extends below grade, termites can tunnel and infest the structure undetected. Lightly tapping on a suspected finish will give a hollow or loose sound if the stucco has a gap behind it. Also check the corners of all slabs – these areas frequently crack, also allowing termites to enter unseen.

 

Supported and floating slabs will have joists where the slab meets the foundation wall. Termites can enter through these joists while exterior stud or masonry walls may cover them. Floor and wall coverings and built-in cabinets can also make inspection access to these joints difficult. This type of joint, however, does not occur in true monolithic or single-pour slabs.

 

A thorough exterior inspection check-list will include:

• Gate posts, fence tie-ins, etc.

• Meter boxes.

• Bathroom inspection doors.

• Ventilation (adequate or insufficient).

• Planters and posts.

• Window sills and windows.

• Door sills and casings.

• Door jambs, especially in garages.

• Frame siding.

• Shingle roofs.

• Eaves and fascia boards (termites and fungus infection).

• Faulty grades and drainage.

• Cracks in the foundation.

• Balconies and landings.

• Abutments, columns, pilasters, etc.

• Loose stucco or siding and stucco or siding “below grade”.

 

*NOTE:

Never be tricked into thinking that the structure being inspected is too new to have termite or other wood-destroying issues or that the structure is being kept very clean and neat, and therefore, shouldn’t have termites!

 

 

Beware of House Flips

 

The practice of “flipping houses,” or purchasing a house for the sole purpose of reselling it shortly thereafter at a profit is becoming quite commonplace. But house flipping can become a major issue for a Pest Control company when it comes to termite inspections – and especially WDIR inspections.

 

When it comes time to sell the house being flipped, a “clean” WDIR will usually be required. But as with anything else, some flippers are ethical and others – well, not so much. Some may take shortcuts to repair previously damaged wood members while others may even try to hide existing wood-destroying activity or damage.

 

It’s up to you as an inspector to find and report not only current wood-destroying insect activity, but also past damage. Many times, when a homeowner closes on their new Dream-Home, they start making changes to the house, replacing doors, windows, etc. During these and other renovations, the past damage or current activity the unethical flipper hid can come back and implicate the inspector who originally gave the “clean” report.

 

While conducting your inspection, keep an eye on the bigger picture as well. Not only do you need to look for tell-tale signs of termite or other wood-destroying insect activity and damage, but you also need to make note of renovations, fresh paint, new molding and other such finish work. Remember that if a significant portion of the interior has been refinished or upgraded, this should give you pause as to why these renovations or repairs may have been made.

 

For this reason, it is critical to conduct a thorough inspection of the structure. First, ensure you inspect the attic, basement and crawl space. But in addition, also thoroughly inspect any other areas where replacement or upgrades may have been observed. Look for signs of repairs conducted, including:

• New interior trim

• New interior or exterior paint

• New wallpaper

• New wood attached to older wood members

• Any other suspicious remodeling

 

*NOTE:

Rule of Thumb: IF FRESH PAINT IS FOUND – LOOK HARDER!

 

 

What to Do if You Find Evidence of Wood Destroying Insects

 

In the case of subterranean termites, look for mud “shelter tubes”, dirty galleries located with the grain, “exit holes”, and “swarmer” wings and/or bodies. In the case of wood-destroying beetles, look for piles of “frass”. If there is damage to an accessible area, we can dig further looking for live workers. The investigation must be within reason, however. We can’t remove a sheet of drywall to determine the extent of damage. However, we can probe soft wood in pursuit of live workers.

 

If no live termites are observed, but evidence of previous activity and/or damage is found, the inspector should denote those findings, along with type of wood-destroying insects and location(s) in Section 3.D.3 “Locations of visible evidence of infestation”.

 

In all cases, when you find wood damage, you should be able to determine which of the various wood-destroying insects could have caused it. The following will enable you to determine whether the damage was caused by ants, bees, beetles, or termites.

 

• Subterranean Termites

  • Frass in the form of mud lining the galleries. Some mud tubes present on concrete, metal, on wall or between wood members. Tunnels within wood usually follow the grain. Exit or entrance holes absent.

  • Frass may also be powdery, pellet-like in form.

  • Frass may be found in the form of coarse fibers with no mud tubes present. It is not usually found within the galleries, but underneath an opening in the wood.

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• Wood Destroying Beetles

  • Frass powdery or pelletized. Exit holes are present and vary in shape (round or oval) and size (1/50” to 3/8”).

 

• Carpenter Bees

  • Damage usually seen on the outside of the structure under the eaves. Fecal stains usually seen on exterior siding. Exit holes are round and usually about ½” in diameter. Tunnels follow the grain of the wood.

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• Carpenter Ants

  • Damage usually found within the structure. Tunnels usually cross the grain of the wood. Frass absent from galleries in the wood, but found underneath an opening in the wood with a “salt & pepper” coloring.

 

 

Treatment Recommendations

 

A termite control treatment should be recommended whenever live termites are observed, regardless of whether or not the structure has been previously treated. A treatment should also be recommended when there is evidence of termites (other than live termites) observed in, on, or within a structure and no evidence of a previous treatment, or when there IS evidence of a previous treatment but no treatment documentation available at the time of the inspection. In this case, the WDIR should be so noted. The only acceptable documentation that termite protection is current and therefore valid, must be written proof that the structure(s) is presently covered by a warranty or service contract with a licensed pest control company.

 

For subterranean termites, drilling and/or trenching with a liquid termiticide, installing a “total colony elimination” system with a liquid termiticide spot-treatment, or a combination of both is required. Spot treatments are not authorized. Various types of wood-boring bees, beetles, etc. must be treated using by the Surgical Spraying Approach.

 

 

Documentation and Report Completion Tips

 

As in all pest control practices, thoroughness during a WDIR inspection is essential. Do not skip any accessible areas. If you cannot gain access to an area, note it on the WDIR report and indicate why the area was not inspected. These are the primary documents that report the details of your inspection. They should be a clear and accurate representation of structure conditions observed during the inspection. In addition, the formal treatment graph should be drawn with enough detail to show problematic areas, while being understandable by the reader of the WDIR.

 

During WDIR inspections, there may be areas where the inspector cannot inspect due to stored items and fixed obstructions like appliances, floor coverings, insulation, etc. There may be limited access (or no access) to an attic or crawl space. These situations need to be listed on the WDIR. If access is denied into attics or crawl areas because of locks, etc., then this too must be listed. This is especially important when the inspection is for property transfer. The new owners will most likely not see the obstruction(s) that were there the day of the inspection. If the inspection is for treatment, the homeowner must be informed that areas that are obstructed need to be opened or the obstruction moved in order to facilitate proper treatment procedures.

 

*NOTE:

Ensure you take photos of inaccessible areas and problem areas and upload them to Pestpac.

 

The structure should be measured using a measuring wheel or some other measuring device in order to develop an accurate representation of the inspected property and to determine the linear footage and/or square footage as required. These measurements should then be transferred to a “rough graph” placed on plain paper for note-taking purposes, or a formal “Treatment Graph”, drawing the layout of the structure to scale as close as possible. This “rough graph” or formal “Treatment Graph” can then be used for sales purposes, as well as determining quantities and/or amounts of materials to be used for termite treatment, if necessary.

 

Draw the graph (if required – update as necessary):

• Measure for linear footage – show actual dimensions (be specific).

• Show utility penetrations (plumbing, electrical, etc.).

• Show conducive conditions (be specific).

• Show possible hidden damage.

• Show potential problems close to structure (deck, shrubs, etc.).

• Show cracks and expansion joints.

• Show termite activity and/or damage.

• Make notation as to dogs, gate, etc.

• Make notation as to where treatment is NOT to be made and reason why.

 

As a general rule, the more we can document the better equipped we are in the event of litigation to combat any allegations of wrongdoing. Notable items include “stucco below grade”, “wood to ground contact”, “fresh patch and/or paint”, etc. In all cases, NEVER use the word “NONE”! Using “NONE” denotes that all areas of the structure have been inspected – and that is impossible! We cannot inspect inside of walls, under floor coverings, under equipment, behind major appliances, etc., and in the event of occupied structures, there will be many areas we cannot inspect due to personal belongings. This is a visual inspection and we are required to inspect only those areas that can be seen at the time of inspection.

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